Due to size limitations the adventure must be continued on another blog.
Click on the link below for the next thrilling instalment with the best yet to come
Click here to proceed to Part the third.
Thursday 20 June 2013
Wednesday 19 June 2013
Trevi Fountain and Pantheon
We had another great day strolling around Rome. There is a subway system here and loads of buses packed to the windows but the city is not so large it can't be seen on foot. We found more neat little panini and gelati shops that way. Today's was really good on a side street off the Via Nationale. The owner kept chatting to us in fair English as he freshly sliced the tomatoes and salami for our panini on a slicer that was surgically clean. He obviously took great pride in his tiny shop and in his new son, Bruno, whose photo hangs on the wall. His wife made the tiramisu we had for dessert and he made the limoncello he gave us to try for the first time. A truly nice man.
Another of the must see places in Rome is the Trevi Fountain and as expected it is thick with hawkers, eateries with inflated prices and tourists making funny poses and getting their picture taken. The carabinieri are there and any attempt to climb onto the fountain for that "amazing photo" is quickly met with a shrill blast from his whistle. And yes, some thoughtless people really do try to climb onto it like it's playground equipment and not a national monument.
Close by is the Pantheon, a classically Greek rotunda shaped building of great antiquity. (I could have sworn I saw it in Paris). This one serves the same purpose recognising nationalistic and patriotic achievements. This one also serves as a consecrated site for religious services and as a burial site for the famous. Raphael is buried here having died at only 37 years of age. His rather youthful looking bust is displayed along side many others. Outside in the piazza stands an original Egyptian obelisk taken when Egypt was a Roman province.
The next stop was the Piazza Navona. The piazza is much larger than any of the others we have seen so far and blissfully it is without traffic as it can only be reached on foot. The centre piece is a large obelisk and fountain with cool clean drinkable water great to help fend off the rising temperatures. Everywhere are street sellers and trattoria. That seems to be its sole purpose now as apart from a museum at one end and a beautiful building near the fountain which was closed there didn't seem to be much else remarkable to see there.
As usual we went off the beaten track on our return. It seems every corner you turn in Rome presents some other unexpected wonder. Right in the middle of the Corso Vittorio Emanuale is an archaeological dig site of ancient Rome. The Italian fashions in the shops are just stunning, the traffic is quite simply insane. As far as I've noticed, parking is anywhere your car fits and for as long as nobody else screams about it. Pedestrian crossings are a good place to hunt for pedestrians and traffic lights are more of a suggestion than a command. Wherever possible we cross the roads by sticking close to the locals who seem to know what they are doing.
Click here for Trevi Fountain, etc.
Another of the must see places in Rome is the Trevi Fountain and as expected it is thick with hawkers, eateries with inflated prices and tourists making funny poses and getting their picture taken. The carabinieri are there and any attempt to climb onto the fountain for that "amazing photo" is quickly met with a shrill blast from his whistle. And yes, some thoughtless people really do try to climb onto it like it's playground equipment and not a national monument.
Close by is the Pantheon, a classically Greek rotunda shaped building of great antiquity. (I could have sworn I saw it in Paris). This one serves the same purpose recognising nationalistic and patriotic achievements. This one also serves as a consecrated site for religious services and as a burial site for the famous. Raphael is buried here having died at only 37 years of age. His rather youthful looking bust is displayed along side many others. Outside in the piazza stands an original Egyptian obelisk taken when Egypt was a Roman province.
The next stop was the Piazza Navona. The piazza is much larger than any of the others we have seen so far and blissfully it is without traffic as it can only be reached on foot. The centre piece is a large obelisk and fountain with cool clean drinkable water great to help fend off the rising temperatures. Everywhere are street sellers and trattoria. That seems to be its sole purpose now as apart from a museum at one end and a beautiful building near the fountain which was closed there didn't seem to be much else remarkable to see there.
As usual we went off the beaten track on our return. It seems every corner you turn in Rome presents some other unexpected wonder. Right in the middle of the Corso Vittorio Emanuale is an archaeological dig site of ancient Rome. The Italian fashions in the shops are just stunning, the traffic is quite simply insane. As far as I've noticed, parking is anywhere your car fits and for as long as nobody else screams about it. Pedestrian crossings are a good place to hunt for pedestrians and traffic lights are more of a suggestion than a command. Wherever possible we cross the roads by sticking close to the locals who seem to know what they are doing.
Click here for Trevi Fountain, etc.
Colosseum, Forum, Constantine's Arch, Monument to Victor Emmanuelle
OK, I know you want to see it so here is the Colosseum. It's a tourist must in Rome so the place is thick with hawkers, tour toutes and thousands of air headed tourists doing funny poses in front of it while getting their pictures taken. If you value your wallet it's a good idea to keep your hand on it too.
In the same precinct is the triumphal arch of the emperor Constantine, the only emperor who was a Christian. He later built the city of Constantinople as his capital, now Istanbul of course.
Just to the west are the current archaeological digs around what was then the Forum. We saw some dedicated students still digging with very small trowels so as not to damage any thing they may uncover. In the heat it could not have been a comfortable job.
Next stop was the monument to Victor Emmanuel who I know nothing about. It is also the location of Italy's variation of the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even by Italian standards you would have to say this building is way over the top. Snowy white marble, frescoes of daring battles, brave warriors in warlike poses, VE himself atop a prancing charger and all set out in a tiered arrangement of progressive degrees of ornate. It's small wonder the locals here refer to the place as the "Wedding Cake".
We were pretty much done in by now so the stroll home resembled a Gelati crawl from shop to shop. We promise, no more church pictures for a while.
Click here for pictures of the Colosseum, etc.
In the same precinct is the triumphal arch of the emperor Constantine, the only emperor who was a Christian. He later built the city of Constantinople as his capital, now Istanbul of course.
Just to the west are the current archaeological digs around what was then the Forum. We saw some dedicated students still digging with very small trowels so as not to damage any thing they may uncover. In the heat it could not have been a comfortable job.
Next stop was the monument to Victor Emmanuel who I know nothing about. It is also the location of Italy's variation of the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even by Italian standards you would have to say this building is way over the top. Snowy white marble, frescoes of daring battles, brave warriors in warlike poses, VE himself atop a prancing charger and all set out in a tiered arrangement of progressive degrees of ornate. It's small wonder the locals here refer to the place as the "Wedding Cake".
We were pretty much done in by now so the stroll home resembled a Gelati crawl from shop to shop. We promise, no more church pictures for a while.
Click here for pictures of the Colosseum, etc.
Diocletian Baths, Maria degli Angeli, Santa Maria Maggiore, St Peter in Chains.
Almost across the street from us are Diocletian's Baths, now part of the Roman museum setup. It originally occupied some 13 hectares and could accommodate several thousand in baths, saunas, theatres and gyms. Outside were very pleasant garden settings now used to display an astonishing variety of roman statues and antiquities from the 2nd century onwards.
Over time they have been changed of course. In 1561 the then pope commissioned Michelangelo to design a church to be dedicated to Maria of the Angels. From the outside it is very easy to miss, it resembles in no way what a church should look like. The inside is an entirely different matter with the influence of Michelangelo seen in every aspect.
A couple of blocks away is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. It's quite a large church and naturally lavishly finished like all those in Rome seem to be. The marble canopy over the formal altar was also designed by Bernini, as was the canopy at St Peters in the Vatican and also the colonade in St Peters square.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive, so the walk to San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains) became more of a pilgrimage than a stroll. This also looks nothing like a church from the outside but again has an interior of breathtaking splendour. Here you can see Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. There is also a holy relic here of the chains used on St Peter who was crucified hung upside down. As with all the churches in Rome they have a respectability dress code for entry. Ladies should have covered shoulders and arms and dresses past the knee. In this weather that can be quite uncomfortable, but there is always a handy street hawker outside selling scarves for tourists at 2 euros a pop so the ladies can cover up.
Click here for pictures of Dioclesians Baths, etc.
Over time they have been changed of course. In 1561 the then pope commissioned Michelangelo to design a church to be dedicated to Maria of the Angels. From the outside it is very easy to miss, it resembles in no way what a church should look like. The inside is an entirely different matter with the influence of Michelangelo seen in every aspect.
A couple of blocks away is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. It's quite a large church and naturally lavishly finished like all those in Rome seem to be. The marble canopy over the formal altar was also designed by Bernini, as was the canopy at St Peters in the Vatican and also the colonade in St Peters square.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive, so the walk to San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains) became more of a pilgrimage than a stroll. This also looks nothing like a church from the outside but again has an interior of breathtaking splendour. Here you can see Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. There is also a holy relic here of the chains used on St Peter who was crucified hung upside down. As with all the churches in Rome they have a respectability dress code for entry. Ladies should have covered shoulders and arms and dresses past the knee. In this weather that can be quite uncomfortable, but there is always a handy street hawker outside selling scarves for tourists at 2 euros a pop so the ladies can cover up.
Click here for pictures of Dioclesians Baths, etc.
Monday 17 June 2013
Vatican, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese
We're not usually big fans of guided tours but we sure are glad we did one for the Vatican. Queues for individual entry can take 2 to 3 hours at least. There are typically 25,000 people a day that enter the city.
Our guide Roberta was as much fun as she was informative. She even kept her cool when at the end of the tour one bloke asked when we would see the Sistine Chapel. We had actually already spent 25 minutes in there but he failed to notice where he was.
The Vatican museum is a treasure house of old masters and Roman antiquities. Where else can you see a whole room where each wall was painted by Raphael? Halls that feature statues from ancient Rome, enormous tapestries from Belgium and renaissance Italy and the map gallery where the known world was geographically recorded in frescoes. Touring through the apartments of the old popes was very enlightening because each one added their own personal touch to the decor. A Raphael here, a Boticelli there just to add a bit of home, you know.
Then we entered the Sistine Chapel and nothing can prepare you for that. Michelangelo's painting on the ceiling covers 400 square meters in astonishing colour and clarity. It took him years to complete and remarkably was the first painting he had ever done. He was a sculptor, not a painter and at first refused the commission. 4 years later working completely alone and almost blind from the candle smoke he finished what we see today. Just an amazing story.
Strictly a no photo venue so can't show you specifically.
St Peters basilica is the largest church in the world. Inside you can see the enormous marble columns and religious frescoes and not one of them is painted. Every one of them is a mozaic. In fact all the colour in the basilica is provided by natural stone alone.
Enjoy the pictures.
The walk home was via St Angelo's fortress and across the bridge where we saw the very ornate Palace of Justice. Ironically someone tried to scam us right there by first pulling up in his car and asking for directions to the Vatican. He was a well dressed man who told us he was a sales rep from Gucci but was from Milan. As thanks for our help he offered Jackie a complimentary leather bag. How nice. Jackie thought she had scored an Italian leather bag, even felt it lovingly but not for long. Unfortunately he was also short of petrol and they wouldn't take any of his credit cards. Could we also help him out with some petrol money? The scam collapsed instantly as the bag went back in the car (much to Jackie's annoyance) and we sent him on his way.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive as we walked on to the Piazza del Popolo. We were cooling ourselves off with lovely clear water from the fountain (all the fountains in Rome have cool clean drinkable water) when we saw a man cooling off his cat the same way. Though it looked a bit bedraggled it seemed quite content to ride home again on its owners shoulders.
A little further along is the Spanish Steps. While a known popular meeting place we were completely unaware of the concentration of up market brand names within that one small piazza. Tiffany's, Sergio Rossi shoes (which Jackie had to be dragged past), Dolce & Gabbana and Dior all rubbed shoulders. Of note was a sign saying simply "Versace, opening soon".
Climbing the Spanish Steps leads to the gardens of the Villa Borghese. It is the largest park in Rome with lots of meandering paths, lakes, fountains and the villa itself which is now a gallery. There is even a zoo in the grounds. The locals love this park and can be seen riding hired 4 wheeled cycles and other pedalled contraptions all over. There is even a funny little electric bus to get about the park in. After a well earned ice cream from the Gelati van (they are everywhere) we walked back to the hotel to have a rest and give some serious thought to what might be on for dinner.
Click here for pictures of the Vatican and Vatican Museum.
Click here for pictures of St Peters basilica.
Click here for pictures of Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese.
Our guide Roberta was as much fun as she was informative. She even kept her cool when at the end of the tour one bloke asked when we would see the Sistine Chapel. We had actually already spent 25 minutes in there but he failed to notice where he was.
The Vatican museum is a treasure house of old masters and Roman antiquities. Where else can you see a whole room where each wall was painted by Raphael? Halls that feature statues from ancient Rome, enormous tapestries from Belgium and renaissance Italy and the map gallery where the known world was geographically recorded in frescoes. Touring through the apartments of the old popes was very enlightening because each one added their own personal touch to the decor. A Raphael here, a Boticelli there just to add a bit of home, you know.
Then we entered the Sistine Chapel and nothing can prepare you for that. Michelangelo's painting on the ceiling covers 400 square meters in astonishing colour and clarity. It took him years to complete and remarkably was the first painting he had ever done. He was a sculptor, not a painter and at first refused the commission. 4 years later working completely alone and almost blind from the candle smoke he finished what we see today. Just an amazing story.
Strictly a no photo venue so can't show you specifically.
St Peters basilica is the largest church in the world. Inside you can see the enormous marble columns and religious frescoes and not one of them is painted. Every one of them is a mozaic. In fact all the colour in the basilica is provided by natural stone alone.
Enjoy the pictures.
The walk home was via St Angelo's fortress and across the bridge where we saw the very ornate Palace of Justice. Ironically someone tried to scam us right there by first pulling up in his car and asking for directions to the Vatican. He was a well dressed man who told us he was a sales rep from Gucci but was from Milan. As thanks for our help he offered Jackie a complimentary leather bag. How nice. Jackie thought she had scored an Italian leather bag, even felt it lovingly but not for long. Unfortunately he was also short of petrol and they wouldn't take any of his credit cards. Could we also help him out with some petrol money? The scam collapsed instantly as the bag went back in the car (much to Jackie's annoyance) and we sent him on his way.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive as we walked on to the Piazza del Popolo. We were cooling ourselves off with lovely clear water from the fountain (all the fountains in Rome have cool clean drinkable water) when we saw a man cooling off his cat the same way. Though it looked a bit bedraggled it seemed quite content to ride home again on its owners shoulders.
A little further along is the Spanish Steps. While a known popular meeting place we were completely unaware of the concentration of up market brand names within that one small piazza. Tiffany's, Sergio Rossi shoes (which Jackie had to be dragged past), Dolce & Gabbana and Dior all rubbed shoulders. Of note was a sign saying simply "Versace, opening soon".
Climbing the Spanish Steps leads to the gardens of the Villa Borghese. It is the largest park in Rome with lots of meandering paths, lakes, fountains and the villa itself which is now a gallery. There is even a zoo in the grounds. The locals love this park and can be seen riding hired 4 wheeled cycles and other pedalled contraptions all over. There is even a funny little electric bus to get about the park in. After a well earned ice cream from the Gelati van (they are everywhere) we walked back to the hotel to have a rest and give some serious thought to what might be on for dinner.
Click here for pictures of the Vatican and Vatican Museum.
Click here for pictures of St Peters basilica.
Click here for pictures of Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese.
Sunday 16 June 2013
Arrival in Rome
We said our goodbyes to Alina at the Palazzina Veneziana and had a short walk to the station. We couldn't leave without expressing our thanks for her truly remarkable job of looking after us so well. As a token of our gratitude we gave her the small plush toy kangaroo which we had attached to Jackie's luggage for easier identification. Alina seemed genuinely touched and hugged it to her cheek.
We crossed over the Ponte Guglie for one last time and walked past old churches, ristoranti, stalls and many people. It was early but Venice is active and busy at all times. We got to Santa Lucia station and waited a short time before we boarded the Frecciargento. Its name translates as "silver arrow". The ride was comfortable and smooth and exactly on time. We travelled through several towns including Padua and Florence and arrived at Roma Termini station again exactly on time. The Italian rail system is just astonishing considering we travelled at better than 100 mph most of the way.
Rome is very warm today. We found our accommodation, which is not too far from the station when you are towing luggage but far enough away from the noise and people. Of course we settled in and then went off in search of fresh milk for our cuppas!
Then we called for the doctor.
The combination of long periods of inert air travel plus lengthy periods of walking in fairly warm conditions plus the general saltiness of European food had brought swelling and a rash up on Tony's legs. It was unlikely to be DVT but we thought it best to have it checked out. Diagnosis, not DVT but some damaged capilleries under the skin. A couple more pills to take, a backside shot full of cortisone, a less salty diet and we can continue with the holiday as planned. Phew.
It's the Vatican's turn tomorrow and I can't wait.
Click here for picture of the Frecciargento.
We crossed over the Ponte Guglie for one last time and walked past old churches, ristoranti, stalls and many people. It was early but Venice is active and busy at all times. We got to Santa Lucia station and waited a short time before we boarded the Frecciargento. Its name translates as "silver arrow". The ride was comfortable and smooth and exactly on time. We travelled through several towns including Padua and Florence and arrived at Roma Termini station again exactly on time. The Italian rail system is just astonishing considering we travelled at better than 100 mph most of the way.
Rome is very warm today. We found our accommodation, which is not too far from the station when you are towing luggage but far enough away from the noise and people. Of course we settled in and then went off in search of fresh milk for our cuppas!
Then we called for the doctor.
The combination of long periods of inert air travel plus lengthy periods of walking in fairly warm conditions plus the general saltiness of European food had brought swelling and a rash up on Tony's legs. It was unlikely to be DVT but we thought it best to have it checked out. Diagnosis, not DVT but some damaged capilleries under the skin. A couple more pills to take, a backside shot full of cortisone, a less salty diet and we can continue with the holiday as planned. Phew.
It's the Vatican's turn tomorrow and I can't wait.
Click here for picture of the Frecciargento.
Saturday 15 June 2013
Murano and Burano
Ah what can one say about Venice! We have all seen pictures and heard or read about Venice but to actually be here and see it is wonderful. It truly is a wondrous place. We intended to visit the islands of Murano and Burano today. They are situated north of the main island in the Venice lagoon. Of course the only way to get there is by vaporetto. So we bought our tickets and set off. The vaporetti are the local bus service and everyone uses them. They are quick, efficient, comprehensively cover the area and are on time.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the island of Murano which is noted for its magnificent glass products and glass blowing factories. We saw someone creating and shaping a horse and he did it with speed and skill. We were told that it takes 20 years to become proficient in this craft. Needless to say their products are beautiful but quite costly. While on the island we walked around and looked at the scenery and then had lunch. Every man and his dog were there and consequently the vaporetti were full to pussy's bow! We left Murano on the sardine special.
Next stop was Burano a further 20 minutes out on the vaporetto. Burano is famous for its lace making skills and products. It is also quaint because the local houses are all brightly coloured. It is a pretty place to visit notwithstanding the fact that tourists were everywhere. It was very hot and so of course we had to have a gelati. Tiramisu and Almond were my choice while Tony had strawberry and mango. Like all Italian ice cream it is absolutely delicious.
We caught the vaporetto and decided to take one back to our accommodation via a circuitous route around the main island. We are so glad we did as it gave us another perspective of Venice and we saw things we hadn't seen previously such as the ship yard, some more incredible churches and the docks where the superliners are berthed.
Venice is a unique and precious place and it has UNESCO Heritage protection. Everywhere you look there is something of interest. The history, characters, buildings, system of transportation and way of life as a result of its geography make it a place to treasure and put on your bucket list!
On our final night we went back to Tre Archi, a restaurant where we sat by the canal and enjoyed the scenery, the food, the waiters, the accordion player and watched the passing parade. A very pleasant place to also watch the sunset on our last evening in Venice.
Arrivaderci Venice......
Click here for pictures of Murano and Burano.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the island of Murano which is noted for its magnificent glass products and glass blowing factories. We saw someone creating and shaping a horse and he did it with speed and skill. We were told that it takes 20 years to become proficient in this craft. Needless to say their products are beautiful but quite costly. While on the island we walked around and looked at the scenery and then had lunch. Every man and his dog were there and consequently the vaporetti were full to pussy's bow! We left Murano on the sardine special.
Next stop was Burano a further 20 minutes out on the vaporetto. Burano is famous for its lace making skills and products. It is also quaint because the local houses are all brightly coloured. It is a pretty place to visit notwithstanding the fact that tourists were everywhere. It was very hot and so of course we had to have a gelati. Tiramisu and Almond were my choice while Tony had strawberry and mango. Like all Italian ice cream it is absolutely delicious.
We caught the vaporetto and decided to take one back to our accommodation via a circuitous route around the main island. We are so glad we did as it gave us another perspective of Venice and we saw things we hadn't seen previously such as the ship yard, some more incredible churches and the docks where the superliners are berthed.
Venice is a unique and precious place and it has UNESCO Heritage protection. Everywhere you look there is something of interest. The history, characters, buildings, system of transportation and way of life as a result of its geography make it a place to treasure and put on your bucket list!
On our final night we went back to Tre Archi, a restaurant where we sat by the canal and enjoyed the scenery, the food, the waiters, the accordion player and watched the passing parade. A very pleasant place to also watch the sunset on our last evening in Venice.
Arrivaderci Venice......
Click here for pictures of Murano and Burano.
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