Due to size limitations the adventure must be continued on another blog.
Click on the link below for the next thrilling instalment with the best yet to come
Click here to proceed to Part the third.
Thursday 20 June 2013
Wednesday 19 June 2013
Trevi Fountain and Pantheon
We had another great day strolling around Rome. There is a subway system here and loads of buses packed to the windows but the city is not so large it can't be seen on foot. We found more neat little panini and gelati shops that way. Today's was really good on a side street off the Via Nationale. The owner kept chatting to us in fair English as he freshly sliced the tomatoes and salami for our panini on a slicer that was surgically clean. He obviously took great pride in his tiny shop and in his new son, Bruno, whose photo hangs on the wall. His wife made the tiramisu we had for dessert and he made the limoncello he gave us to try for the first time. A truly nice man.
Another of the must see places in Rome is the Trevi Fountain and as expected it is thick with hawkers, eateries with inflated prices and tourists making funny poses and getting their picture taken. The carabinieri are there and any attempt to climb onto the fountain for that "amazing photo" is quickly met with a shrill blast from his whistle. And yes, some thoughtless people really do try to climb onto it like it's playground equipment and not a national monument.
Close by is the Pantheon, a classically Greek rotunda shaped building of great antiquity. (I could have sworn I saw it in Paris). This one serves the same purpose recognising nationalistic and patriotic achievements. This one also serves as a consecrated site for religious services and as a burial site for the famous. Raphael is buried here having died at only 37 years of age. His rather youthful looking bust is displayed along side many others. Outside in the piazza stands an original Egyptian obelisk taken when Egypt was a Roman province.
The next stop was the Piazza Navona. The piazza is much larger than any of the others we have seen so far and blissfully it is without traffic as it can only be reached on foot. The centre piece is a large obelisk and fountain with cool clean drinkable water great to help fend off the rising temperatures. Everywhere are street sellers and trattoria. That seems to be its sole purpose now as apart from a museum at one end and a beautiful building near the fountain which was closed there didn't seem to be much else remarkable to see there.
As usual we went off the beaten track on our return. It seems every corner you turn in Rome presents some other unexpected wonder. Right in the middle of the Corso Vittorio Emanuale is an archaeological dig site of ancient Rome. The Italian fashions in the shops are just stunning, the traffic is quite simply insane. As far as I've noticed, parking is anywhere your car fits and for as long as nobody else screams about it. Pedestrian crossings are a good place to hunt for pedestrians and traffic lights are more of a suggestion than a command. Wherever possible we cross the roads by sticking close to the locals who seem to know what they are doing.
Click here for Trevi Fountain, etc.
Another of the must see places in Rome is the Trevi Fountain and as expected it is thick with hawkers, eateries with inflated prices and tourists making funny poses and getting their picture taken. The carabinieri are there and any attempt to climb onto the fountain for that "amazing photo" is quickly met with a shrill blast from his whistle. And yes, some thoughtless people really do try to climb onto it like it's playground equipment and not a national monument.
Close by is the Pantheon, a classically Greek rotunda shaped building of great antiquity. (I could have sworn I saw it in Paris). This one serves the same purpose recognising nationalistic and patriotic achievements. This one also serves as a consecrated site for religious services and as a burial site for the famous. Raphael is buried here having died at only 37 years of age. His rather youthful looking bust is displayed along side many others. Outside in the piazza stands an original Egyptian obelisk taken when Egypt was a Roman province.
The next stop was the Piazza Navona. The piazza is much larger than any of the others we have seen so far and blissfully it is without traffic as it can only be reached on foot. The centre piece is a large obelisk and fountain with cool clean drinkable water great to help fend off the rising temperatures. Everywhere are street sellers and trattoria. That seems to be its sole purpose now as apart from a museum at one end and a beautiful building near the fountain which was closed there didn't seem to be much else remarkable to see there.
As usual we went off the beaten track on our return. It seems every corner you turn in Rome presents some other unexpected wonder. Right in the middle of the Corso Vittorio Emanuale is an archaeological dig site of ancient Rome. The Italian fashions in the shops are just stunning, the traffic is quite simply insane. As far as I've noticed, parking is anywhere your car fits and for as long as nobody else screams about it. Pedestrian crossings are a good place to hunt for pedestrians and traffic lights are more of a suggestion than a command. Wherever possible we cross the roads by sticking close to the locals who seem to know what they are doing.
Click here for Trevi Fountain, etc.
Colosseum, Forum, Constantine's Arch, Monument to Victor Emmanuelle
OK, I know you want to see it so here is the Colosseum. It's a tourist must in Rome so the place is thick with hawkers, tour toutes and thousands of air headed tourists doing funny poses in front of it while getting their pictures taken. If you value your wallet it's a good idea to keep your hand on it too.
In the same precinct is the triumphal arch of the emperor Constantine, the only emperor who was a Christian. He later built the city of Constantinople as his capital, now Istanbul of course.
Just to the west are the current archaeological digs around what was then the Forum. We saw some dedicated students still digging with very small trowels so as not to damage any thing they may uncover. In the heat it could not have been a comfortable job.
Next stop was the monument to Victor Emmanuel who I know nothing about. It is also the location of Italy's variation of the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even by Italian standards you would have to say this building is way over the top. Snowy white marble, frescoes of daring battles, brave warriors in warlike poses, VE himself atop a prancing charger and all set out in a tiered arrangement of progressive degrees of ornate. It's small wonder the locals here refer to the place as the "Wedding Cake".
We were pretty much done in by now so the stroll home resembled a Gelati crawl from shop to shop. We promise, no more church pictures for a while.
Click here for pictures of the Colosseum, etc.
In the same precinct is the triumphal arch of the emperor Constantine, the only emperor who was a Christian. He later built the city of Constantinople as his capital, now Istanbul of course.
Just to the west are the current archaeological digs around what was then the Forum. We saw some dedicated students still digging with very small trowels so as not to damage any thing they may uncover. In the heat it could not have been a comfortable job.
Next stop was the monument to Victor Emmanuel who I know nothing about. It is also the location of Italy's variation of the tomb of the unknown soldier. Even by Italian standards you would have to say this building is way over the top. Snowy white marble, frescoes of daring battles, brave warriors in warlike poses, VE himself atop a prancing charger and all set out in a tiered arrangement of progressive degrees of ornate. It's small wonder the locals here refer to the place as the "Wedding Cake".
We were pretty much done in by now so the stroll home resembled a Gelati crawl from shop to shop. We promise, no more church pictures for a while.
Click here for pictures of the Colosseum, etc.
Diocletian Baths, Maria degli Angeli, Santa Maria Maggiore, St Peter in Chains.
Almost across the street from us are Diocletian's Baths, now part of the Roman museum setup. It originally occupied some 13 hectares and could accommodate several thousand in baths, saunas, theatres and gyms. Outside were very pleasant garden settings now used to display an astonishing variety of roman statues and antiquities from the 2nd century onwards.
Over time they have been changed of course. In 1561 the then pope commissioned Michelangelo to design a church to be dedicated to Maria of the Angels. From the outside it is very easy to miss, it resembles in no way what a church should look like. The inside is an entirely different matter with the influence of Michelangelo seen in every aspect.
A couple of blocks away is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. It's quite a large church and naturally lavishly finished like all those in Rome seem to be. The marble canopy over the formal altar was also designed by Bernini, as was the canopy at St Peters in the Vatican and also the colonade in St Peters square.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive, so the walk to San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains) became more of a pilgrimage than a stroll. This also looks nothing like a church from the outside but again has an interior of breathtaking splendour. Here you can see Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. There is also a holy relic here of the chains used on St Peter who was crucified hung upside down. As with all the churches in Rome they have a respectability dress code for entry. Ladies should have covered shoulders and arms and dresses past the knee. In this weather that can be quite uncomfortable, but there is always a handy street hawker outside selling scarves for tourists at 2 euros a pop so the ladies can cover up.
Click here for pictures of Dioclesians Baths, etc.
Over time they have been changed of course. In 1561 the then pope commissioned Michelangelo to design a church to be dedicated to Maria of the Angels. From the outside it is very easy to miss, it resembles in no way what a church should look like. The inside is an entirely different matter with the influence of Michelangelo seen in every aspect.
A couple of blocks away is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. It's quite a large church and naturally lavishly finished like all those in Rome seem to be. The marble canopy over the formal altar was also designed by Bernini, as was the canopy at St Peters in the Vatican and also the colonade in St Peters square.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive, so the walk to San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains) became more of a pilgrimage than a stroll. This also looks nothing like a church from the outside but again has an interior of breathtaking splendour. Here you can see Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. There is also a holy relic here of the chains used on St Peter who was crucified hung upside down. As with all the churches in Rome they have a respectability dress code for entry. Ladies should have covered shoulders and arms and dresses past the knee. In this weather that can be quite uncomfortable, but there is always a handy street hawker outside selling scarves for tourists at 2 euros a pop so the ladies can cover up.
Click here for pictures of Dioclesians Baths, etc.
Monday 17 June 2013
Vatican, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese
We're not usually big fans of guided tours but we sure are glad we did one for the Vatican. Queues for individual entry can take 2 to 3 hours at least. There are typically 25,000 people a day that enter the city.
Our guide Roberta was as much fun as she was informative. She even kept her cool when at the end of the tour one bloke asked when we would see the Sistine Chapel. We had actually already spent 25 minutes in there but he failed to notice where he was.
The Vatican museum is a treasure house of old masters and Roman antiquities. Where else can you see a whole room where each wall was painted by Raphael? Halls that feature statues from ancient Rome, enormous tapestries from Belgium and renaissance Italy and the map gallery where the known world was geographically recorded in frescoes. Touring through the apartments of the old popes was very enlightening because each one added their own personal touch to the decor. A Raphael here, a Boticelli there just to add a bit of home, you know.
Then we entered the Sistine Chapel and nothing can prepare you for that. Michelangelo's painting on the ceiling covers 400 square meters in astonishing colour and clarity. It took him years to complete and remarkably was the first painting he had ever done. He was a sculptor, not a painter and at first refused the commission. 4 years later working completely alone and almost blind from the candle smoke he finished what we see today. Just an amazing story.
Strictly a no photo venue so can't show you specifically.
St Peters basilica is the largest church in the world. Inside you can see the enormous marble columns and religious frescoes and not one of them is painted. Every one of them is a mozaic. In fact all the colour in the basilica is provided by natural stone alone.
Enjoy the pictures.
The walk home was via St Angelo's fortress and across the bridge where we saw the very ornate Palace of Justice. Ironically someone tried to scam us right there by first pulling up in his car and asking for directions to the Vatican. He was a well dressed man who told us he was a sales rep from Gucci but was from Milan. As thanks for our help he offered Jackie a complimentary leather bag. How nice. Jackie thought she had scored an Italian leather bag, even felt it lovingly but not for long. Unfortunately he was also short of petrol and they wouldn't take any of his credit cards. Could we also help him out with some petrol money? The scam collapsed instantly as the bag went back in the car (much to Jackie's annoyance) and we sent him on his way.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive as we walked on to the Piazza del Popolo. We were cooling ourselves off with lovely clear water from the fountain (all the fountains in Rome have cool clean drinkable water) when we saw a man cooling off his cat the same way. Though it looked a bit bedraggled it seemed quite content to ride home again on its owners shoulders.
A little further along is the Spanish Steps. While a known popular meeting place we were completely unaware of the concentration of up market brand names within that one small piazza. Tiffany's, Sergio Rossi shoes (which Jackie had to be dragged past), Dolce & Gabbana and Dior all rubbed shoulders. Of note was a sign saying simply "Versace, opening soon".
Climbing the Spanish Steps leads to the gardens of the Villa Borghese. It is the largest park in Rome with lots of meandering paths, lakes, fountains and the villa itself which is now a gallery. There is even a zoo in the grounds. The locals love this park and can be seen riding hired 4 wheeled cycles and other pedalled contraptions all over. There is even a funny little electric bus to get about the park in. After a well earned ice cream from the Gelati van (they are everywhere) we walked back to the hotel to have a rest and give some serious thought to what might be on for dinner.
Click here for pictures of the Vatican and Vatican Museum.
Click here for pictures of St Peters basilica.
Click here for pictures of Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese.
Our guide Roberta was as much fun as she was informative. She even kept her cool when at the end of the tour one bloke asked when we would see the Sistine Chapel. We had actually already spent 25 minutes in there but he failed to notice where he was.
The Vatican museum is a treasure house of old masters and Roman antiquities. Where else can you see a whole room where each wall was painted by Raphael? Halls that feature statues from ancient Rome, enormous tapestries from Belgium and renaissance Italy and the map gallery where the known world was geographically recorded in frescoes. Touring through the apartments of the old popes was very enlightening because each one added their own personal touch to the decor. A Raphael here, a Boticelli there just to add a bit of home, you know.
Then we entered the Sistine Chapel and nothing can prepare you for that. Michelangelo's painting on the ceiling covers 400 square meters in astonishing colour and clarity. It took him years to complete and remarkably was the first painting he had ever done. He was a sculptor, not a painter and at first refused the commission. 4 years later working completely alone and almost blind from the candle smoke he finished what we see today. Just an amazing story.
Strictly a no photo venue so can't show you specifically.
St Peters basilica is the largest church in the world. Inside you can see the enormous marble columns and religious frescoes and not one of them is painted. Every one of them is a mozaic. In fact all the colour in the basilica is provided by natural stone alone.
Enjoy the pictures.
The walk home was via St Angelo's fortress and across the bridge where we saw the very ornate Palace of Justice. Ironically someone tried to scam us right there by first pulling up in his car and asking for directions to the Vatican. He was a well dressed man who told us he was a sales rep from Gucci but was from Milan. As thanks for our help he offered Jackie a complimentary leather bag. How nice. Jackie thought she had scored an Italian leather bag, even felt it lovingly but not for long. Unfortunately he was also short of petrol and they wouldn't take any of his credit cards. Could we also help him out with some petrol money? The scam collapsed instantly as the bag went back in the car (much to Jackie's annoyance) and we sent him on his way.
The heat was becoming quite oppressive as we walked on to the Piazza del Popolo. We were cooling ourselves off with lovely clear water from the fountain (all the fountains in Rome have cool clean drinkable water) when we saw a man cooling off his cat the same way. Though it looked a bit bedraggled it seemed quite content to ride home again on its owners shoulders.
A little further along is the Spanish Steps. While a known popular meeting place we were completely unaware of the concentration of up market brand names within that one small piazza. Tiffany's, Sergio Rossi shoes (which Jackie had to be dragged past), Dolce & Gabbana and Dior all rubbed shoulders. Of note was a sign saying simply "Versace, opening soon".
Climbing the Spanish Steps leads to the gardens of the Villa Borghese. It is the largest park in Rome with lots of meandering paths, lakes, fountains and the villa itself which is now a gallery. There is even a zoo in the grounds. The locals love this park and can be seen riding hired 4 wheeled cycles and other pedalled contraptions all over. There is even a funny little electric bus to get about the park in. After a well earned ice cream from the Gelati van (they are everywhere) we walked back to the hotel to have a rest and give some serious thought to what might be on for dinner.
Click here for pictures of the Vatican and Vatican Museum.
Click here for pictures of St Peters basilica.
Click here for pictures of Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese.
Sunday 16 June 2013
Arrival in Rome
We said our goodbyes to Alina at the Palazzina Veneziana and had a short walk to the station. We couldn't leave without expressing our thanks for her truly remarkable job of looking after us so well. As a token of our gratitude we gave her the small plush toy kangaroo which we had attached to Jackie's luggage for easier identification. Alina seemed genuinely touched and hugged it to her cheek.
We crossed over the Ponte Guglie for one last time and walked past old churches, ristoranti, stalls and many people. It was early but Venice is active and busy at all times. We got to Santa Lucia station and waited a short time before we boarded the Frecciargento. Its name translates as "silver arrow". The ride was comfortable and smooth and exactly on time. We travelled through several towns including Padua and Florence and arrived at Roma Termini station again exactly on time. The Italian rail system is just astonishing considering we travelled at better than 100 mph most of the way.
Rome is very warm today. We found our accommodation, which is not too far from the station when you are towing luggage but far enough away from the noise and people. Of course we settled in and then went off in search of fresh milk for our cuppas!
Then we called for the doctor.
The combination of long periods of inert air travel plus lengthy periods of walking in fairly warm conditions plus the general saltiness of European food had brought swelling and a rash up on Tony's legs. It was unlikely to be DVT but we thought it best to have it checked out. Diagnosis, not DVT but some damaged capilleries under the skin. A couple more pills to take, a backside shot full of cortisone, a less salty diet and we can continue with the holiday as planned. Phew.
It's the Vatican's turn tomorrow and I can't wait.
Click here for picture of the Frecciargento.
We crossed over the Ponte Guglie for one last time and walked past old churches, ristoranti, stalls and many people. It was early but Venice is active and busy at all times. We got to Santa Lucia station and waited a short time before we boarded the Frecciargento. Its name translates as "silver arrow". The ride was comfortable and smooth and exactly on time. We travelled through several towns including Padua and Florence and arrived at Roma Termini station again exactly on time. The Italian rail system is just astonishing considering we travelled at better than 100 mph most of the way.
Rome is very warm today. We found our accommodation, which is not too far from the station when you are towing luggage but far enough away from the noise and people. Of course we settled in and then went off in search of fresh milk for our cuppas!
Then we called for the doctor.
The combination of long periods of inert air travel plus lengthy periods of walking in fairly warm conditions plus the general saltiness of European food had brought swelling and a rash up on Tony's legs. It was unlikely to be DVT but we thought it best to have it checked out. Diagnosis, not DVT but some damaged capilleries under the skin. A couple more pills to take, a backside shot full of cortisone, a less salty diet and we can continue with the holiday as planned. Phew.
It's the Vatican's turn tomorrow and I can't wait.
Click here for picture of the Frecciargento.
Saturday 15 June 2013
Murano and Burano
Ah what can one say about Venice! We have all seen pictures and heard or read about Venice but to actually be here and see it is wonderful. It truly is a wondrous place. We intended to visit the islands of Murano and Burano today. They are situated north of the main island in the Venice lagoon. Of course the only way to get there is by vaporetto. So we bought our tickets and set off. The vaporetti are the local bus service and everyone uses them. They are quick, efficient, comprehensively cover the area and are on time.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the island of Murano which is noted for its magnificent glass products and glass blowing factories. We saw someone creating and shaping a horse and he did it with speed and skill. We were told that it takes 20 years to become proficient in this craft. Needless to say their products are beautiful but quite costly. While on the island we walked around and looked at the scenery and then had lunch. Every man and his dog were there and consequently the vaporetti were full to pussy's bow! We left Murano on the sardine special.
Next stop was Burano a further 20 minutes out on the vaporetto. Burano is famous for its lace making skills and products. It is also quaint because the local houses are all brightly coloured. It is a pretty place to visit notwithstanding the fact that tourists were everywhere. It was very hot and so of course we had to have a gelati. Tiramisu and Almond were my choice while Tony had strawberry and mango. Like all Italian ice cream it is absolutely delicious.
We caught the vaporetto and decided to take one back to our accommodation via a circuitous route around the main island. We are so glad we did as it gave us another perspective of Venice and we saw things we hadn't seen previously such as the ship yard, some more incredible churches and the docks where the superliners are berthed.
Venice is a unique and precious place and it has UNESCO Heritage protection. Everywhere you look there is something of interest. The history, characters, buildings, system of transportation and way of life as a result of its geography make it a place to treasure and put on your bucket list!
On our final night we went back to Tre Archi, a restaurant where we sat by the canal and enjoyed the scenery, the food, the waiters, the accordion player and watched the passing parade. A very pleasant place to also watch the sunset on our last evening in Venice.
Arrivaderci Venice......
Click here for pictures of Murano and Burano.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the island of Murano which is noted for its magnificent glass products and glass blowing factories. We saw someone creating and shaping a horse and he did it with speed and skill. We were told that it takes 20 years to become proficient in this craft. Needless to say their products are beautiful but quite costly. While on the island we walked around and looked at the scenery and then had lunch. Every man and his dog were there and consequently the vaporetti were full to pussy's bow! We left Murano on the sardine special.
Next stop was Burano a further 20 minutes out on the vaporetto. Burano is famous for its lace making skills and products. It is also quaint because the local houses are all brightly coloured. It is a pretty place to visit notwithstanding the fact that tourists were everywhere. It was very hot and so of course we had to have a gelati. Tiramisu and Almond were my choice while Tony had strawberry and mango. Like all Italian ice cream it is absolutely delicious.
We caught the vaporetto and decided to take one back to our accommodation via a circuitous route around the main island. We are so glad we did as it gave us another perspective of Venice and we saw things we hadn't seen previously such as the ship yard, some more incredible churches and the docks where the superliners are berthed.
Venice is a unique and precious place and it has UNESCO Heritage protection. Everywhere you look there is something of interest. The history, characters, buildings, system of transportation and way of life as a result of its geography make it a place to treasure and put on your bucket list!
On our final night we went back to Tre Archi, a restaurant where we sat by the canal and enjoyed the scenery, the food, the waiters, the accordion player and watched the passing parade. A very pleasant place to also watch the sunset on our last evening in Venice.
Arrivaderci Venice......
Click here for pictures of Murano and Burano.
Friday 14 June 2013
Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace.
Due to a strike, the vaporetto were not running today. There was nothing for it but to walk to San Marco square. Actually Venice is not large at all and you can walk from one end to the other in under an hour. This of course assumes you know where to go and how to get there. Otherwise the streets and allies and canals can be a real maze to get through.
Following the signs we made the square in about 25 minutes. Being early was good as the inevitable crowds of visitors had not yet arrived. We could wander pretty much as we wanted and take photos without too many other people in them.
We took a tour of the Doge's palace which included the secret areas and also across the Bridge of Sighs which joins the palace to the prison next door. A stroll through the main palace is breath taking and it was designed to be just that. To show off the wealth and power of the old Venetian republic to visiting dignitaries the corridors and staircases and chambers were all embellished with gold leaf and frescoes of glorious battles and the riches they possessed. On the ceilings and walls are commonly found canvases by Tintoretto, Veronese and Titian. When Napoleon conquered the place in the late 18th century he already had in mind the art treasures he wanted to loot. You'll find them in the Louvre today.
Unfortunately photography is not permitted inside the palace so you'll just have to go there and see for yourself.
The Basilica of San Marco was originally only for use by the Doge as a private chapel. Some chapel. The remains of St Mark were returned and interred here although he actually died in Egypt. The four famous bronze horses on the loggia of the basilica have been a permanent fixture for a couple of centuries but were in fact looted from Constantinople during the 4th crusade. The interior is almost completely decorated with not paintings but mozaics, but you have to look closely to even tell they are so finely detailed. All the background areas to the decoration of the 7 domes and the ceilings were done in gold covered tiles which gives the place a shimmering lustrous opulence. Sorry, again no photography permitted but I think I snuck in one for you.
Arrival in Venice and the Cannaregio
Ah magnificent Venice!
We were overwhelmed when we arrived. We took our luggage and headed off in the direction of our accomodation at the Palazzina Veneziana. Google maps have served us very well and we found it with no trouble. A lovely lady Signora Alina met us and directed us to our room which is delightful and beautifully furnished in a traditional Venetian motif. After a rest and a freshen up we went for a walk. We had planned to investigate the Cannareggio area of Venice, where we were staying and so we discovered the churches we had earmarked to see. We took off at midday and returned to our room at 5.30 quite tired. Someone had a snooze while someone else played with technology.....can you guess who?
After a suitable rest we took off again for a walk and somewhere to have dinner. The place we found was an idyllic Pizzeria right on the Cannaregio canal. Very good value with a freshly made wood fired pizza the size of a small table for Jackie and a calzone like half a football for me. Just to add a little atmosphere a travelling minstrel came by with a piano accordion and played Que Sera, Volare and other hits. It was just like in the movies really.
Upon our return we asked our brilliant hostess Alina for some information about the Vaporetto. These are large water borne buses really and constitute the public transport system of Venice. Alina apolegetically told us they were on strike the next day! How could we complain!!!! Tomorrow would be by foot around Venice. Alina said it would be a 45 minute walk to San Marco's piazza from where we were.
Tomorrow is to be an early start but that has been the norm so far. Early mornings with lots of walking and late nights. It doesn't get dark until around 10.30 and so time slips by. It's great because you can get more done but that means less sleep. So we will need a holiday to recover from our holiday!
Click here for pictures of Palazzina Veneziana and the Cannaregio district.
We were overwhelmed when we arrived. We took our luggage and headed off in the direction of our accomodation at the Palazzina Veneziana. Google maps have served us very well and we found it with no trouble. A lovely lady Signora Alina met us and directed us to our room which is delightful and beautifully furnished in a traditional Venetian motif. After a rest and a freshen up we went for a walk. We had planned to investigate the Cannareggio area of Venice, where we were staying and so we discovered the churches we had earmarked to see. We took off at midday and returned to our room at 5.30 quite tired. Someone had a snooze while someone else played with technology.....can you guess who?
After a suitable rest we took off again for a walk and somewhere to have dinner. The place we found was an idyllic Pizzeria right on the Cannaregio canal. Very good value with a freshly made wood fired pizza the size of a small table for Jackie and a calzone like half a football for me. Just to add a little atmosphere a travelling minstrel came by with a piano accordion and played Que Sera, Volare and other hits. It was just like in the movies really.
Upon our return we asked our brilliant hostess Alina for some information about the Vaporetto. These are large water borne buses really and constitute the public transport system of Venice. Alina apolegetically told us they were on strike the next day! How could we complain!!!! Tomorrow would be by foot around Venice. Alina said it would be a 45 minute walk to San Marco's piazza from where we were.
Tomorrow is to be an early start but that has been the norm so far. Early mornings with lots of walking and late nights. It doesn't get dark until around 10.30 and so time slips by. It's great because you can get more done but that means less sleep. So we will need a holiday to recover from our holiday!
Click here for pictures of Palazzina Veneziana and the Cannaregio district.
The Thello
Well we left Paris on the Thello full of excitement and anticipation. We found our cabin and burst into laughter. I don't think the proverbial cat could be thrown in it! However it was a place to have some down time and watch the French countryside go by. This by the way is lush and green, with idyllic small towns and churches strewn everywhere.
During the evening we were given complimentary tickets for a glass of wine or a juice.... well we didn't need much coaxing. We went to the carriage to get our drink and waited in a queue. Then there were 2 ladies in front of us and that's where they stayed and stayed and stayed debating something with the staff in machine gun French and counting money. Then it was our turn and Tony ordered a sandwich and peanuts and wanted to pay by card. Well did that cause concern! Their machine was on the fritz and couldn't cope with the card and wanted us to pay cash. Tony had only a little cash left at the time but paid cash and then they didn't have the right money to give him change and said they would pay it later. You have to laugh!
Click here for pictures of the Thello.
During the evening we were given complimentary tickets for a glass of wine or a juice.... well we didn't need much coaxing. We went to the carriage to get our drink and waited in a queue. Then there were 2 ladies in front of us and that's where they stayed and stayed and stayed debating something with the staff in machine gun French and counting money. Then it was our turn and Tony ordered a sandwich and peanuts and wanted to pay by card. Well did that cause concern! Their machine was on the fritz and couldn't cope with the card and wanted us to pay cash. Tony had only a little cash left at the time but paid cash and then they didn't have the right money to give him change and said they would pay it later. You have to laugh!
Click here for pictures of the Thello.
Thursday 13 June 2013
Musee d'Orsay and the Gare de Lyon
This was our last day in Paris and we had a few hours to kill between checkout time from the hotel (11:00 am) and departure time for the train (7:00 pm). The hotel staff kindly offered to hold our luggage for us for the duration. So with no baggage to haul around we were virtually freed to do what we wanted to. Seeing the Musee d'Orsay was therefore a simple decision.
The museum is probably best known for its collection of Impressionist paintings by Manet, Monet, Renoir and their contemporaries but carries post and pre impressionist period works as well. There is a surprisingly large collection of period and Modernist sculptures too with many works by Rodin represented. Photographing the artworks is unfortunately not permitted by we did get a great view of Sacre Coeur through the clock face on the fifth level.
The building itself is one gigantic hall, hardly surprising as in its previous life it was a railway station. While now much altered, all the exposed riveted steel beams are still a dead giveaway.
After picking up our luggage from storage at our hotel we did a quick metro scamper over to the Gare de Lyon where we would be catching the overnight train to Venice. The station itself is an enormous bussle of people and luggage coming and going in all directions but right in the heart of it is a restaurant called the Train Bleu. This used to be the buffet when the station was originally built for the Paris exhibition back in 1900. Then it was created in the lavish "Belle Epoque" style to impress the exhibition visitors and it has been meticulously restored to its exact original state. It is ungodly expensive and mostly full of "suits" doing business deals, but we stretched the budget to include a coffee and macaroons there so we could take some photos for you.
Click here for pictures of the Musee d'Orsay, Gare de Lyon and the Train Bleu.
The museum is probably best known for its collection of Impressionist paintings by Manet, Monet, Renoir and their contemporaries but carries post and pre impressionist period works as well. There is a surprisingly large collection of period and Modernist sculptures too with many works by Rodin represented. Photographing the artworks is unfortunately not permitted by we did get a great view of Sacre Coeur through the clock face on the fifth level.
The building itself is one gigantic hall, hardly surprising as in its previous life it was a railway station. While now much altered, all the exposed riveted steel beams are still a dead giveaway.
After picking up our luggage from storage at our hotel we did a quick metro scamper over to the Gare de Lyon where we would be catching the overnight train to Venice. The station itself is an enormous bussle of people and luggage coming and going in all directions but right in the heart of it is a restaurant called the Train Bleu. This used to be the buffet when the station was originally built for the Paris exhibition back in 1900. Then it was created in the lavish "Belle Epoque" style to impress the exhibition visitors and it has been meticulously restored to its exact original state. It is ungodly expensive and mostly full of "suits" doing business deals, but we stretched the budget to include a coffee and macaroons there so we could take some photos for you.
Click here for pictures of the Musee d'Orsay, Gare de Lyon and the Train Bleu.
Wednesday 12 June 2013
Versailles
One of the highlights of this entire trip was the time spent at the Versailles Chateau. While usually associated with Louis the umpteenth and Marie Antoinette, it had been expanded and modified by the previous monarchs over many years. Today it is pretty much as it was before the revolution and is being meticulously restored to get even closer than that.
While the drawing rooms and chambers inside are simply breathtaking, the gardens outside defy belief. The estate covers several hundred hectares with a dozen individually designed wooded groves, dozens of manicured gardens, fountains and an enormous crusiform artificial lake for boating and entertaining the nobility. It is said that at one time there were 10,000 gardeners employed to maintain the estate.
There are other residences on the estate too. The Grand Trianon was built as a getaway for royal family to escape the bussle of palace life in the Chateau. The Petit Trianon was built for the Queen as a private residence and a small hamlet built nearby so she could experience peasant life whenever she wanted to. It includes farms, numerous cottages and even a mill to better create an air or rural tranquility.
It is easy to see how the royals became so out of touch with what was actually happening in the country at the time.
Click here for pictures of Versailles inside.
Click here for pictures of the gardens at Versailles.
While the drawing rooms and chambers inside are simply breathtaking, the gardens outside defy belief. The estate covers several hundred hectares with a dozen individually designed wooded groves, dozens of manicured gardens, fountains and an enormous crusiform artificial lake for boating and entertaining the nobility. It is said that at one time there were 10,000 gardeners employed to maintain the estate.
There are other residences on the estate too. The Grand Trianon was built as a getaway for royal family to escape the bussle of palace life in the Chateau. The Petit Trianon was built for the Queen as a private residence and a small hamlet built nearby so she could experience peasant life whenever she wanted to. It includes farms, numerous cottages and even a mill to better create an air or rural tranquility.
It is easy to see how the royals became so out of touch with what was actually happening in the country at the time.
Click here for pictures of Versailles inside.
Click here for pictures of the gardens at Versailles.
Tuesday 11 June 2013
Cite de l'Architecture, Eiffel Tower and Napoleon's Tomb
We didn't really mean to see the Cite de l'Architecture, but it was on our way to the Eiffel Tower. We were walking past when the fountains at the front erupted in a spectacular display of water cannon artistry.
The Eiffel Tower, tourist Mecca and blockades of hawkers flogging souvenirs to wade through. I was also approached here with the string scam.
Down a long approach park to the Eiffel Tower is the Ecole Militaire. Turning here we ventured on to the Musee d'Armee and Napoleon's Tomb. This is well worth seeing as the classical architecture was comparitively recently built. And it's almost all marble.
Click here for pictures of fountains, Eiffel Tower and Napoleon's Tomb.
The Eiffel Tower, tourist Mecca and blockades of hawkers flogging souvenirs to wade through. I was also approached here with the string scam.
Down a long approach park to the Eiffel Tower is the Ecole Militaire. Turning here we ventured on to the Musee d'Armee and Napoleon's Tomb. This is well worth seeing as the classical architecture was comparitively recently built. And it's almost all marble.
Click here for pictures of fountains, Eiffel Tower and Napoleon's Tomb.
The Louvre, Tuileries and Champs Elysee.
Seeing the Louvre should really take several weeks. The artistic treasures in there just defy description. Paintings by Leonardo are hung side by side with those of Titian and Tintoretto in apparently careless arangement. Endless halls and galleries filled with exquisite Italian paintings or classical Greek statues or Egyptian artifacts or medieval ceramics. You name it and you can find the very best of it here.
The Louvre is probably the greatest tourist attraction in a city full of tourist attractions, so the crowds of tourists there can be quite enormous. And where there are tourists in large numbers there can be easy pickings for pickpockets and other con tricksters. I was approached by a woman holding a gold ring and ask if I had dropped it. This is a common scam as if you so much as take that ring into your hand for a closer look you have bought it. She will insist you pay for it and create an embarrassing scene until you do so. Best avoid the hassle by not accepting anything from strangers and keep your hand on your wallet in those areas.
Leaving the Louvre (eventually) we made our way west across a sprawling expanse of classically designed french gardening known as the Tuileries. This a very popular place for Parisians to sit and relax so we joined them and had lunch at an outside restaurant in the park under the shady elm trees.
Leaving the Tuileries you can see the Arc de Triomphe dominating the horizon and a busy wide avenue leading to it. This is the Champs Elysee and home to most of the most exclusive brand names you can think of. A stroll along it will take you past Cartier, Swarovski, Louis Vuiton, Zara, Guerlain, Tissot and god knows how many others commonly found in Harpers or Vogue. Er, we didn't do any shopping there this trip. Maybe next time.
As mentioned, the Champs Elysee leads right up to the Arc de Triomphe. In fact there are five or six major avenues that all radiate out from the Arc and the traffic is in a continual swirling whirlpool around the wide avenue that surrounds it. Don't even think about approaching it on the surface. There are no lights and no lanes. It's every man for himself in there. Follow the signs to the pedestrian tunnel if you want to visit the Arc and even climb it. They say the view from the top down all the radiating avenues is good but just too "touristy" for my (Tony) tastes. Check out the pictures, any and all comments welcomed.
Click here for pictures of the interior of the Louvre
Click here for pictures of Tuileries and Champs Elysee
The Louvre is probably the greatest tourist attraction in a city full of tourist attractions, so the crowds of tourists there can be quite enormous. And where there are tourists in large numbers there can be easy pickings for pickpockets and other con tricksters. I was approached by a woman holding a gold ring and ask if I had dropped it. This is a common scam as if you so much as take that ring into your hand for a closer look you have bought it. She will insist you pay for it and create an embarrassing scene until you do so. Best avoid the hassle by not accepting anything from strangers and keep your hand on your wallet in those areas.
Leaving the Louvre (eventually) we made our way west across a sprawling expanse of classically designed french gardening known as the Tuileries. This a very popular place for Parisians to sit and relax so we joined them and had lunch at an outside restaurant in the park under the shady elm trees.
Leaving the Tuileries you can see the Arc de Triomphe dominating the horizon and a busy wide avenue leading to it. This is the Champs Elysee and home to most of the most exclusive brand names you can think of. A stroll along it will take you past Cartier, Swarovski, Louis Vuiton, Zara, Guerlain, Tissot and god knows how many others commonly found in Harpers or Vogue. Er, we didn't do any shopping there this trip. Maybe next time.
As mentioned, the Champs Elysee leads right up to the Arc de Triomphe. In fact there are five or six major avenues that all radiate out from the Arc and the traffic is in a continual swirling whirlpool around the wide avenue that surrounds it. Don't even think about approaching it on the surface. There are no lights and no lanes. It's every man for himself in there. Follow the signs to the pedestrian tunnel if you want to visit the Arc and even climb it. They say the view from the top down all the radiating avenues is good but just too "touristy" for my (Tony) tastes. Check out the pictures, any and all comments welcomed.
Click here for pictures of the interior of the Louvre
Click here for pictures of Tuileries and Champs Elysee
Monday 10 June 2013
The Adventure continues
Due to limited space, we have had to continue with a second blog.
Add this to your favourites and travel along with us.
Click here to return to original blog site.
Add this to your favourites and travel along with us.
Click here to return to original blog site.
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